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Woot! I just finished the repair on Andy’s DS Lite. I decided after looking at the materials involved that he’d probably bugger the thing all up if I tried to get him to do the work, so I did it myself. The repairs were delayed, due to the fact that the first place I tried to order the parts from (ModChipStore.com) was out of stock on the parts I needed, and after canceling the order with them it took me a while to find someone else with decent seller ratings that had the parts in stock. The repair wasn’t hard at all, and the only reason it took me 50 minutes to complete was the fact that I was taking a f*cking TON of pictures of the process. Check the bill of materials, tool list, step-by-step walkthrough and video of the first test of the new screen after the jump.
UPDATE: Aww poop. Apparently the back of the screen touches something it shouldn’t when you bear down on the right hand edge of the screen, I’ll have to tear it apart and put some tape on the back of the LCD tonight.
UPDATE: Fixed. Added one extra step.
DISCLAIMER:
In this walkthrough, I’ll show you how to…
Void your DS Lite’s warranty
Tear your $130 hand held game system to tiny shreds
Possibly lose important bits of the aforementioned game system
Possibly break important bits of the aforementioned game system
Possibly completely destroy the aforementioned game system
Buy fragile components that you can break easily, thereby wasting all your lunch money … and …
Use tools that, wielded improperly, can cause death, dismemberment, blindness, deafness, and/or the inability to reproduce.
Basically, what I’m saying here is that if your mommy won’t let you use a steak knife on your own yet, don’t even think about this repair. If you follow my instructions, you do so at your own risk, understanding that you might lose a screw, destroy your DS Lite, or kill yourself depending on the severity of your incompetence. Neither I, nor anyone I know personally, will take responsibility for your actions. That’s your job. I am not affiliated with Nintendo, and this not a procedure that Nintendo suggests you even read about, much less try.
TOOLS:
You will need the following common household tools: (well, common in MY household, anyhow)
A small (size 00) phillips screwdriver (that means the cross-type, duh)
A clean pocket knife (no fishguts, please)
You will also need the following specialty tool:
A tri-blade “Nintendo” screwdriver
I purchased my tri-blade screwdriver from Revolution-sales.com, it was $9.99 USD, plus $5.55 shipping, and arrived in three business days via US Postal Service Priority Mail. It’s of good sturdy quality, probably constructed more sturdily than most of the other tools in my toolbox.
PARTS:
You will need a screen. (Oh, no shit, right?)
I ordered mine though DTechUSA’s Ebay store. It was $36.85 USD including shipping, and arrived in three business days via US Postal Service Priority Mail. Please note that this is the LCD ONLY, you’ll need to harvest the touchscreen from the existing screen below. If you order a screen WITH the touchscreen already attached, you may skip a couple steps below, as noted. I’m a cheap bastard, so I went for the cheap parts.
This was my first Ebay purchase ever. I feel like a big boy now. GOOD SELLER ITEM SHIPPED AS PROMISED WILL USE AGAIN A+++++++++++++ (sorry, had to do it.)
PREPARATIONS:
Clean your work area. OK, fine… clean about 1 square foot of work area. You don’t ACTUALLY have to clean the whole thing. Kick the cat out, put the dog in it’s crate, and lock the children in the basement again send the kids to bed. Open beer, drink beer, have a seat. Oh, you might want to go get the broken DS Lite too. It does not need a beer.
PROCEDURE:
Alrighty then, let’s gut this thing.
Flip the DS Lite over, and locate the phillips screw on the battery door. Unscrew it. This screw does NOT come out of the battery door, don’t try to pry it out. Jut unscrew it, then use the tip of your knife or other tool to GENTLY pop up the end near the screw. The door should pull up and out from there. Set the door aside.
Locate the tab at the top edge of the battery, near the Nintendo logo. Pry up at this point with a small screwdriver tip or your knife. It should swing up and out. Set the battery aside.
Locate the two white rubber feet near the “R” and “L” buttons on the bottom of the unit. Gently pry these off with your knife or a screwdriver tip. They are held on with double-sided stickytape. Try not to gouge up the plastic too much, and try to keep the stickytape clean so you can put them back later. Be sure to set them aside STICKY SIDE UP. Your table does not need rubber feet permanently affixed to it’s top.
You now have a total of 7 screws to remove. There are 3 silver phillips headed screws (marked in RED), three silver tri-slot screws to remove (marked in BLUE) and one black tri-slot screw to remove (marked in GREEN). Do NOT remove the phillips head screw in the middle of the battery well. That comes later. Set the 7 screws aside. Sorting them by head type and color will help you later.
Once all 7 scerws have been removed, gently slide your fingernal under the edge of the case, and work your way around the unit. You may feel a couple small “pops” as the case comes free of the rest of the unit. Be VERY careful not to let the “R” and “L” buttons fly off at this point, and also be careful not to let the Power and Volume sliders fall out. You should now have a nekkid DS Lite mainboard looking back at you.
CAREFULLY remove the “R” and “L” buttons. THERE ARE SPRINGS UNDER TENSION HERE. DO NOT LOSE THEM OR YOU WILL BE AN UNHAPPY CAMPER. Remove the buttons slowly, and try our best to remove the button itself, the shaft the button rotates on, and the spring on that shaft as a single unit. This will make your life slightly easier in re-assembly. Set these aside GENTLY.
You now have three connectors to disconnect. They are to the left of DS card slot. There is one WHITE antenna cable, one BLACK antenna cable and one NARROW COPPER 4-conductor ribbon. The two antenna cables simply pop straight off their connectors. Note where the connectors came from! In my case, the BLACK antenna cable went to the silver box. Just remmeber “Black Box” and you’ll be fine. The NARROW COPPER ribbon cable is more challenging. Get in real close to the board and take a good look. See that black bit on the top of the connector? That part hinges up from the side away from the cable. I’ve tried my best to illustrate that here, hopefully it’s clear enough. Once the black part of the connector is popped up, slide the cable out carefully.
Remove the two phillips headed screws from the main board. They are circled in white on the board itself, and in RED in the illustration here. GENTLY push up on the screen from below with your fingertips. The screeen and the main board should lift out. DO NOT try to pull it free of the rest of the unit, there is a paper-thin ribbon cable between this board and the upper screen! Just flip it up and over without placing any strain on that cable.
Locate the WIDE COPPER ribbon cable on the lower LCD (NOT from the upper LCD), and locate its connection to the main board. This connector is different from the last one, it hinges up and away from the edge TOWARD the cable. It’s hard to see, and you’ll swear you’re going to break it when you’re unlatching it. Unlatch it, and unplug the cable. It may take some wiggling side-to-side.
This is a step you can skip if you ordered an LCD with a touchscreen already attached. Move on to step 11. If you ordered from DTechUSA from the link above, you need to follow this step, as the part I referenced is the LCD screen ONLY. Leave the main board in place, and look at the screen. There is a thin polycarbonate touch-screen element affixed to the screen with double-sided foam tape. YOU NEED THIS. YOU NEED THIS IN ONE PEICE. GENTLY work your CLEAN knife tip between the metal bezel around the LCD and the foam tape. MAKE SURE YOU’RE BETWEEN THE FOAM TAPE AND THE LCD, NOT THE FOAM TAPE AND THE TOUCHSCREEN. Be careful in the area of the narrow copper ribbon cable. Do not cut this. Place the touchscreen with the double-sided foam tape facing UP on your workbench. Your workbench does not need a permanently affixed touchscreen to go with those permanently affixed rubber feet. DO NOT touch the back side of the screen with your fingers, you’ll never get those fingerprints off properly.
You should now be holding your non-functional LCD screen. Dispose of it properly.
This is a step you can skip if you ordered an LCD with a touchscreen already attached. Move on to step 14. If you ordered from DTechUSA from the link above, you need to follow this step, as the part I referenced is the LCD screen ONLY. Take a close look at your new LCD screen. It will have a protective label over the front of it. There is usually a tab or a corner that is not adhered to the screen, so you can get a fingernail under it and peel this label off. Do so GENTLY, and do your damnedest to avoid getting your greasy fingers on the screen. Mine had a nearly-invisible red arrow indicating the correct corner to peel.
This is a step you can skip if you ordered an LCD with a touchscreen already attached. Move on to step 14. If you ordered from DTechUSA from the link above, you need to follow this step, as the part I referenced is the LCD screen ONLY. Here’s a fun tip: use the DS Lite to align your touchscreen for you! Drop the touchscreen into place in the DS Lite’s case. Again, do NOT touch the back of the screen. Check to make sure there are no lint balls/grease smears/small animals on the back of the touchscreen. Check the front of the LCD for similar problems. Once you stick these together, taking them apart again will be a pain in the butt, and will likely damage that double-sided sticky foam. Once you’re SURE everything is spotless, gently drop the screen into place on top of the touchscreen, and GENTLY run around it’s edges with your fingers. Don’t apply too much presure there, Hercules… you’ve had to buy one LCD already, you know. Gently lift the screen out with your fingertips from underneath, and visually check that the touchscreen is completely affixed to the bezel of the LCD.
Ensure that the back of your new LCD panel is insulated so that it does not touch any of the traces on the main board. In my case, I actually “finished” the repair, only to find out later that if you touch a particular area near the edge of the screen, the DS Lite would shut off. The back of the LCD panel I got from DTechUSA was all exposed metal, and required a liberal application of Dollar Tree brand invisible tape. Be sure to cover the back of the LCD all the way out to the edges, but do not let it wrap around the edges. The recess that the screen sits in is pretty tight to begin with, having tape on the edges of the screen will make it almost impossible to get into place.
OK! You’re done! Put it back together on your own!Just kidding. I hate walk-throughs that do that to you. There are just as many (if not MORE) gotchas for re-assembly as there are for dis-assembly. Now that you have the screen re-assembled, connect the WIDE COPPER ribbon cable to the main board. make sure the cable is FULLY inserted. Clamp the connector down. Again, it’ll feel like you’re going to break something when doing this, it’s pretty tight connector.
Making sure the NARROW COPPER ribbon cable for the touchscreen is hooked around the edge of the main board, set the screen and main board back into the case. Make sure the screw posts line up with the holes. The board should pop down securely in place when you have it aligned properly. Make sure both the BLACK and WHITE antenna cables run between the shaft socket and spring pocket for the “L” button, and on the other end that the WHITE antenna cable comes up out of the same notch in the edge of the board as the NARROW COPPER ribbon cable. Install the two phillips head screws into the two screw holes for the main board, as illustrated in step 8 above.
Connect the NARROW COPPER ribbon cable to the board first. This is a challenge. make SURE the black part of the connector is in the FULLY UPRIGHT position. The cable will slide UNDER the black part, between it and the brown base of the connector. Make sure the cable is FULLY inserted as far as it will go into the connector before locking down the black latch on the connector. You can then snap the WHITE and BLACK antenna cables back into place. Remember, the BLACK one was attached to the silver box, the WHITE one was directly on the main board.
Re-install the “R” and “L” buttons. Remember how I said to keep the button, shaft and spring as a single unit? Yeah, this is where that comes back into play. Again, this is a tricky part involving springs under tension. The last thing you want to hear right now is the sound “*PING*… TAP..tap..tap…” as the spring launches from the unit and scurries across your floor only to come to rest under the most inconvenient possible piece of furniture in the room. Looking at the bottom of the unit, with the GBA slot pointing towards yourself, the “R” button goes on the left. Place the tip of the spring into the spring pocket, with the spring under no tension. The button will be pointing straight out over the rear edge of the unit, and the shaft should drop into the shaft pocket at this point. GENTLY and CAREFULLY rotate the button into place, putting the spring under tension and moving the button into place. You may want to keep a fingertip over the spring pocket to keep it from popping up out of there. Once the button is in place, you may use your knife or a screwdriver tip to push the tip of the spring deeper down into that spring pocket. Repeat this procedure for the “L” button. I really should have better pictures of this, but I was too busy minding the springs to take pictures. Sue me.
Now you can drop the back case in place. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL AT THIS POINT!!! Several people have noted that it’s incredibly easy to break the power switch at this stage. MAKE SURE the switch on the board and the sliding part of the switch built into the bottom part of the housing are aligned before squeezing things together! I’m serious about this, check out the notes below if you don’t believe me. Install the 7 screws you removed before. Referencing the illustration from step 4, there should be 3 silver Phillips headed screws (marked in RED), three silver tri-slot screws to replace (marked in BLUE) and one black tri-slot screw to replace (marked in GREEN).
Re-install the battery. Make sure you insert it contacts first, being careful to line up the little posts. Pop it down into place, then replace the battery cover and screw it down.
Flip the DS Lite over, say a little prayer, and turn it on. If you were successful, you will get the results shown below. If you don’t, it’s on you. Don’t bother emailing me or asking for support here. I do tech support at work, not at home. You will need to reset your nickname, favorite color, date and time. If you aligned the touchscreen properly, you shouldn’t notice any problems with stylus input at all. Mine worked great the first time out, even on the tiny on screen keyboard.
Note: As several people have stated in the comments, if you finish this proceedure and end up with a DS Lite that powers on for a second, then immediately shuts down, open it back up and double, triple, and quaduple check your connectors. Make SURE all the ribbon connectors are in good condition, make sure they’re FULLY inserted into the connectors, and make sure the connectors are locked down tight. This is one of the the leading causes of frustration when performing this repair, right along with breaking that pesky on/off switch.
